Spoolboyy from the TotalRuckus forum created a photo tutorial of how to do this and it's helped tons! I used it this morning and completed the brake pad change for the front w/o any issues. Since his tutorial is already so complete, I didn't bother with any redundancy in the tutorial tips below. I took additional pics that he hadn't included and wanted to incorporate some other info I found helpful.
Firstly, a little note on buying brakes. I'm a little weary of buying them from ebay. I hear there are so many fake ones out there that haven't been regulated. I'm concerned these are unsafe. Although I bought the genuine TEIN springs for my car awhile back ago, I did find a fake made-in-china one on ebay that looked very real. They're cheaper but aren't tested and built to the standard of the real thing. TEIN's website confirmed fake ones indeed were found on the market. When it comes to performance and safety components, I'm avoiding the fake stuff. I picked up the EBC brakes from my shop directly and trust they're real. I saw what I suspected to be a generic one before so I'm pretty sure this is the good stuff in the pic below. The packaging is slightly different.
Firstly, a little note on buying brakes. I'm a little weary of buying them from ebay. I hear there are so many fake ones out there that haven't been regulated. I'm concerned these are unsafe. Although I bought the genuine TEIN springs for my car awhile back ago, I did find a fake made-in-china one on ebay that looked very real. They're cheaper but aren't tested and built to the standard of the real thing. TEIN's website confirmed fake ones indeed were found on the market. When it comes to performance and safety components, I'm avoiding the fake stuff. I picked up the EBC brakes from my shop directly and trust they're real. I saw what I suspected to be a generic one before so I'm pretty sure this is the good stuff in the pic below. The packaging is slightly different.
What tools did I use? I ended up not really needing the two ratchet sets. One was plenty. I had plenty of light so the flashlight wasn't used either. Vice grip was omitted from the installation too. It ended up not working for closing the caliper. The angle was too extreme once it got wide enough to pull the caliper closed.
Instead, I used a piece of wood I found laying around. I wanted to torque the loosened bolts back to spec, so that was needed too. Threadlock is also highly recommended.
Once the caliper was removed, I wanted to take a photo to be sure I was putting everything back together correctly. The back of the dirty pad is slipping.
Once the three 12mm bolts are removed, the L-bracket holding the brake pads slip out off the caliper itself. A metal tube slips it into place.
Can you tell I really did need to replace the brakes? Wow, that's nuts. The brake pad on the left is mostly the metal and not even the pad itself. I'm glad I changed the brakes today.
When you put the grease on the pads, be sure to put it on the correct side. I was stupid and put it on the actual ceramic side that touches the rotor. That's a big no-no. Here's a shot of where the grease needs to go. See the outline circle of where the caliper pushes the pad into the rotor?
When the caliper's removed from the rotor, the caliper is closed. We need to pull it back to compensate for the now new thicker pad. A c-clamp didn't work b/c it wasn't large enough (not mine at least). The vice grip isn't able to pull the caliper back in a parallel direction. Tough to explain. Just use a piece of wood and push the caliper in by hand.
I'm not sure why my photos are being uploaded sideways. Here are the new pads installed onto the L-bracket. Be sure to leave enough room btw the pads for the rotor! Yes, that's grease on the pads you see here in the pic.
Spoolboyy wasn't the only one that took a couple tries to get the pads installed on either side of the rotor. It's a squeeze with new pads since they're thicker and there's less space to work with.
Before putting the bolts back on, I wanted to use some threadlock to be sure these puppies stay put! You don't want bolts vibrating out while riding. Just squeeze some on the threads.
For those who want the torque specs, here they are straight from Yamaha's Service Manual. Note that you're looking at Column A (not B). I use ft lbs but feel free to use Nm if you have that on your torque wrench. Being specific really isn't necessarily b/c as I mentioned, 11 ft lbs is very little. I torqued it higher.
All done! Time to clean up the mess and go for a test ride. Squeeze the brakes a few times though to get it going. It'll be loose the first few times you pull the lever. Do this while the scooter's at a standstill.I'm assuming the brake in period is a couple hundred miles so I'll be taking it easy on the brakes for the next couple weeks.
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