The capacitor didn't work. It exploded. Pop! and all this fuzzy stuff came out of it. Ugh.
Maybe I'm supposed to hook up the negative wire to ground instead of the negative pole of the battery? or not.
Read some more stuff online:
Just a warning, if your lights only come on when the motor is running,
they probably are running AC directly from the stator and the relay
provided will only work with DC. You'll either have to add a rectifier
(or two, if you want hi/low) or wire up a switch to fire the relay from
the DC out of the bike's rectifier.
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Another possible solution, as Charger RT 2010 noted, is to hook up the
ECE's between the relay harness and the factory harness. The ECE's are
basically just capacitors anyway. The reason the buzzing occurs even
with the ECE's connected directly to the ballasts is that the relay is
still receiving the pulse. Putting the ECE's in the path of the pulse
and having them receive the pulse before the relay may solve the issue.
I haven't tried this solution myself but the logic is sound.
I am running the DDM tuning 35W kit with ECE's and Relay Harness and now
the capacitor. I guess this may seem "overkill" but I'd rather have
the harness to provide the initial ignition power as opposed to
straining the stock wiring. The Error Code Eliminators take care of any
flickering issues due to computer controlled headlights detecting a
lower power draw on the circuit and thinking a bulb is out. Hope this
clears things up for everybody.
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