The capacitor didn't work. It exploded. Pop! and all this fuzzy stuff came out of it. Ugh.
Maybe I'm supposed to hook up the negative wire to ground instead of the negative pole of the battery? or not.
Read some more stuff online:
Just a warning, if your lights only come on when the motor is running, 
they probably are running AC directly from the stator and the relay 
provided will only work with DC.  You'll either have to add a rectifier 
(or two, if you want hi/low) or wire up a switch to fire the relay from 
the DC out of the bike's rectifier. 
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Another possible solution, as Charger RT 2010 noted, is to hook up the 
ECE's between the relay harness and the factory harness.  The ECE's are 
basically just capacitors anyway.  The reason the buzzing occurs even 
with the ECE's connected directly to the ballasts is that the relay is 
still receiving the pulse.  Putting the ECE's in the path of the pulse 
and having them receive the pulse before the relay may solve the issue. 
 I haven't tried this solution myself but the logic is sound.
I am running the DDM tuning 35W kit with ECE's and Relay Harness and now
 the capacitor.  I guess this may seem "overkill" but I'd rather have 
the harness to provide the initial ignition power as opposed to 
straining the stock wiring.  The Error Code Eliminators take care of any
 flickering issues due to computer controlled headlights detecting a 
lower power draw on the circuit and thinking a bulb is out.  Hope this 
clears things up for everybody. 
  
 
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